Saturday, December 21, 2013

TRIP RECAP

Since I have been home, my two least favorite questions are, "Can you tell me about your trip?" and "What was your favorite country?"  It is hard to give a general statement about my trip because I feel like I did so much and each place I went was so different.  But if I had to give general statements about my travels it would be the following.  I am in love traveling. I'v learned more about myself and the world in the past 7 months than in any formal education.  I am not a different person but my world view and self perception has changed. I've learned that you should never judge a person or any place too quickly. What looks "bad" to you may only be bad from your point of view due to your upbringing and culture.  I have learned to take chances and put yourself out there but to also have your guard up, especially as a female.  Most importantly I feel like I have a new confidence that one can only gain when traveling by him/herself.  There are difficult moments but at the end of the day it makes you feel like you can do anything in the world. Traveling is addicting.  I do not feel like "I got it out of my system," but now realize there is still so much of the world I have not yet seen. I do not regret a single part of my trip and I am grateful for every second of it.

To answer the second question, which was my favorite country, I have to say that I cannot choose just one.  I can tell you my favorite thing about each country or the first thing that comes to mind.

Thailand-- Best vacation spot and best beaches
Vietnam-- Best food and best cities
Cambodia-- Best temples (Siem Reap)
Laos-- Most beautiful and best for adventures
Myanmar-- Feels the most "untouched"(so go sooner rather than later!); Nicest people in the world
Nepal-- Best place for a trek and to see mountains (so beautiful)
India-- Most intense, biggest cultural immersion, and most impactful

I did not meet many Americans traveling because Americans have this "live to work" mindset.  We don't take gap years, we don't quit our job and we don't take risks.  We need to learn how to live life.  Since I've been home I find myself quickly getting back into the American mindset and routine but I hope that I will always travel and I know that this trip has changed me.

I hope that this blog is helpful for anyone who is thinking of traveling.  My one advice for anyone who is debating a trip like this is  JUST DO IT.  Now is the time.  What is one year of your life in the long run?  Especially if that one year will make you a happier person.  Everyone who is older with a family and commitments regreets not doing a trip like this.  So do it now and I promise you will not regret it. 




I left something in India...

A friend of mine I met at Sadhana forest from Latvia told me that in his country when people are asked, "why are you going to India?" a common response is, "I left something there."  He told me this my first week in India and I did not understand it.  But after about a month into my trip, especially after my experience with the Blossom Trust, I began to comprehend. When people ask me which country was my favorite, I wouldn't necessarily say that it was India. But, when people ask which country impacted me the most, India is the immediate answer. I would't recommend  India for everyone (especially if  you are there for less than a month).  The country is SO different and if I had to describe it in one word it would be intense.  The smells, colors, sounds and people are intense.  In India you see the good, the bad and the ugly.  But, if you stay long enough and have an open mind, you begin to love the good even more, realize the bad isn't really that bad-- just different, and while the ugly is always ugly, you start to learn from it.  The intensity that was once overwhelming in a bad way just makes you feel alive.

I am 100% certain that I will be returning to this amazing country.  I left something there. I can't really tell you what I left, but unlike most of the other countries I visited I feel like my visit was incomplete.  I don't think I will ever see enough of India.  There is too much to see-- too many people, cultures, cities and states.  There are 1.3 billion people with 28 states and 22 official languages (hundreds of unofficial).  Traveling in India is often extremely frustrating but it is these challenges that are often the most rewarding.  India opens your mind. India opens you heart. 

As you can see, I was literally only in the southern tip of India
Much more to see!


Friday, December 20, 2013

Ten Days of a Vipassana Meditation Course (Chennai, India)

India is such a spiritual place and I did not want to leave this country without experiencing some of this. Furthermore, with less than 2 weeks left, I realized that I was not ready to come home.  I therefore decided that I wanted spend the last days of my trip clearing my head, challenging myself and reflecting on the amazing 7 months that I had experienced.  From several fellow travelers I had heard of a type of meditation called Vipassana which holds a 10 day course for beginners.  This is a very intensive course that requires 10 hours a day of meditation and a vow of silence during your stay (surprisingly the silence was the easy part). I realized that I was up for this challenge and if there was ever a time in my life to do something like this it was now.

Out of all the crazy things I have done on my travels this "10 day silent meditation course" is what my friends and family could and still cannot get over.  And I will be honest-- it was probably one of the hardest things I have ever done in my life and 90% of the time I was there I was miserable.  Nonetheless, it is one of the best things I have ever done.  I really feel a difference in myself and I believe it was this experience that made my transition back to American so easy.

In this blog post I am not going to go into the philosophy of the practice or how I feel it has affected  so if you are interested and would like to hear more about it please contact me.  I highly suggest this for anyone however I do believe that the timing needs to be right and you need to go into it with an open mind.  There are Vipassana centers all over the world including the U.S. and I will probably take a "refresher" course in the next year or so.

THE COURSE TIMETABLE

4:00 am    Morning wake-up bell
4:30-6:30 amMeditate in the hall or in your room
6:30-8:00 amBreakfast break
8:00-9:00 amGroup meditation in the hall
9:00-11:00 amMeditate in the hall or in your room according to the teacher's instructions
11:00-12:00 noonLunch break
12noon-1:00 pmRest and interviews with the teacher
1:00-2:30 pmMeditate in the hall or in your room
2:30-3:30 pmGroup meditation in the hall
3:30-5:00 pmMeditate in the hall or in your own room according to the teacher's instructions
5:00-6:00 pmTea break
6:00-7:00 pmGroup meditation in the hall
7:00-8:15 pmTeacher's Discourse in the hall
8:15-9:00 pmGroup meditation in the hall
9:00-9:30 pmQuestion time in the hall
9:30 pmRetire to your own room--Lights out

I did have one full day left in India after the course and I spent it with Mercy and her family in their home in Chennai.  Mercy took me shopping for souvenirs and we went to her sister's house for dinner.  It was the best last day I could imagine-- I felt like part of a family.

Two Weeks Volunteering for the Blossom Trust (Virudhunagar, Tamil Nadu, India)

How I came to spend two weeks in Southern India at the Blossom Dayspring Home is the epitome of my little to no planning technique, and as per usual, this technique proved to work extremely well.  I really don’t think I could have had such an amazing volunteer experience even if I had spent months of researching and planning.  Sometimes you just have to go with your gut, and let fate play its role.  I don’t know if I was extremely lucky or if things just happen for a reason.  There is also the possibility that I would have loved almost any volunteer experience in India, however I really think this one was extra special and exactly what I was looking for.


My volunteer experience at Sadhana forest was amazing, but as I mentioned before I did not feel like I was learning or experiencing much of India during my stay there.  And while my two weeks of travelling with Amy and Caecilie gave me a very good sense of India and South Indian culture, I was ready to stay put for a while and get to know some people and a region. The day before Caecilie, Amy and I parted ways I sent a few emails to volunteer opportunities I found on helpx.com. The first to respond was Mercy Annapoorani,  the the director of Blossom Trust and two days later I was one a night bus to Madurai (which was quite an experience) and then an early morning but to a small town called Virudhunagar.  From the first day I could tell it was going to be a good experience. Since it was a Sunday, the volunteers had the day off so I spent the day with Mercy and her family in their office/home. She showed me how to cook homemade dosas and chicken curry and gave me an overview of the organization. She was thrilled that I was a native english speaker and immediately put me to work on the website and annual report which needed to be re-written.

The Blossom Trust is an Indian  non profit organization whose aim is to improve the lives of marginalized groups, particularly women, children and people effected by HIV/AIDS and TB.  They have numerous projects with a focus in the state of Tamil Nadu.  One of these projects is an orphanage called the Dayspring Home which houses and cares for children who either have HIV, are TB cured and/or whose families are effected by the diseases. While volunteering, I lived at the orphanage and was lucky enough get to know 20 children. The orphanage is located in a small village called Chitun and is connected to an organic farm which is also one of Blossom Trust's projects.
When I first arrived, there were 4 other volunteers, one couple from France and the other couple from Belgium. The French couple left after my first week and right afterwards a Welsch couple arrived.  It was nice to have other volunteers to spend time with and we all got along very well.  For more information visit the following website (which I helped write!):  http://www.blossomtrust.org.in



My average day consisted of waking up at 5:30 in the morning to children's' voices (My room shared a wall with the boys' room).  I usually didn't get out of bed until 6:00 am and was often greeted at my door with a cup of tea by the orphanage's wonderful cook named Mary.  Mary and I ended up having an amazing connection even though she barely spoke any English.


From about 6:30 until 8:00 the volunteers usually helped out with the farm and/or the children.  This either consisted of pulling weeds, expanding a stone wall, mixing manure for the biogas plant or helping the kids get ready for school.


We then usually took the 8:30 bus into town which took about 25 minutes and was usually packed with people. There were often students who would hang onto the outside of the bus because there was no more room inside. We would usually grab a delicious breakfast of either dosa, idly or puri at one of the many "restaurants" in town and then head to the office.



We would work in the office usually until 4:30 where we were provided a delicious homemade lunch everyday.  I was very lucky to be doing such substantial work because the other volunteers mostly focused on writing and researching grants for funding which I do not find as interesting. We would usually take the 4:30 bus back to the orphanage where we would play with the kids and help them with their homework until dinner around 8:00pm. After such a long day, I would be as exhausted as the kids and usually went to bed around 9:30. It was a simple life but I don't think I every have woken up in the morning feeling so content and happy.

 

There were a few memories that will stand out during my time at the Blossom Dayspring Home.  Myself and some of the other volunteers wanted to make a donation to the orphanage however we thought instead of just handing over money we'd contribute something directly so that we could see the immediate impact.  One thing that the daypsring home/ organic farm needed were chickens for eggs and revenue.  The used to have chickens but a few months prior they were killed by dogs or snakes (we are still unsure of the true story).  Therefore, myself and another volunteer offered to buy a total of 10 new chickens.  In order to do this, we were directed to the local village where farmers grabbed their chickens, weighed them and then handed them to us to carry back to the orphanage.  I NEVER thought that I would have the guts to carry a live chicken for a mile but I will never forget this experience and do not regret it for one second.


Another part of the dayspring home that needed a bit of financial aid and attention was the biogas plant.  The biogas plant is an amazing energy resource which converts cow manure into gas for the kitchen stove.  This is not only environmentally friendly but also saves the organization a lot of money. The only problem was that in order to get the biogas plant started, there needs to be a very large amount of cow waste which the orphanage could not provide with their two cows.  Therefore, one of the volunteers offered to purchase a truckload of cow poop to get the biogas plant started.  This was a pretty messy and funny process but within a week the plant was working!



On our days off we were able to take a 1.5 hour train into the city of Madurai which is a hustling and bustling city with fun markets and the infamous Meenakshi Amman Temple which is known as the "Taj Mahal" of the Southern India.   



One of the highlights of my entire trip in India was the celebration of Diwali, an ancient Hindu festival which is pretty much a combination of New Years and Christmas.  The children and almost the whole country look forward to this holiday and it is celebrated with lights, fireworks, firecrackers, gifts and delicious feasts.  It was so amazing to participate in this holiday rather than just observe it as a tourist. Mercy suggested that the day before Diwali we take a trip down to KanyaKumari, the southern most tip of India.  The volunteers and I suggested that we bring the children along, so we raised a bit more money in order to fund this trip.  The kids could not have been more excited-- it was many of their first times seeing the ocean!  It was an amazing day.  We took a a 4 hour bus where we watched the most popular "Tamil" movies and then spent the day viewing the tourist attractions, taking the kids to the ocean, playing in a park and watching the sunset.  The kids (and the adults) were so exhausted by the end of the day that everyone was passed out on the floor of the bus on the way back.



On Diwali we slept in a bit and were surprised with a "special meal" that local families provided for the kids.  Special meals usually consisted of some sort of meat curry and idly's which was a treat for the children whose usual meals were rice with a gravy.  Myself and one of the other volunteers, Celine, decided that we wanted to purchase the traditional Sari to wear for Diwali.  One of the women who works for the organization took us a few days prior to purchase Saris and get them tailored.  On Diwali we dressed up and I felt like an Indian princess.  Everyone told me I looked "Tamil" and it was surprisingly very comfortable to wear!  However, I do not know if I will very be able to wear it again since it is so confusing to put on.  The whole day we ate delicious food, so many sweets, gave the children their presents and ended the night with sparklers and fire crackers.  It kind of sounded like a war zone with the amount of "bombs" that the children were letting off.   We ended the night walking into the local village where religious ceremonies and celebrations were taking place. It was such an amazing and magical day and I will never forget it for the rest of my life.




One of the best parts of this volunteer experience was the relationships I made.  I fell in love with the 20 children and really clicked with Mercy, her family and the other members of the organization. I almost felt like part of the family.  I got along so well with Mercy that when I had to go to Chennai for a few days at the end of my trip I stayed at her house there where her children live.  I hope to see her again in the future and I know that I will back at the Dayspring Home in the future.

Mercy and her husband


Two Weeks in Kerala

As amazing as Sadhana Forest was I felt that if I spent my whole two months there I could not say that I truly experienced India. And although I wanted to spend most of my time in India volunteering, I knew that I wanted to spend at least two weeks traveling.  I was extremely lucky to find two girls at Sadhana Forest who had the same timetable as me: Amy, a 22 year old from Canada, and Caecilie, a 24 year old from Denmark.  The three of us decided the best use of our time would to travel around the the state of Kerala which is on the Southwest tip of India and is known for its beauty and economic growth.


We took an overnight train to the Southern part of Kerala called Trivandrum.  We somehow managed to get on a special train which served us about 5 courses of food.  The city of Trivandrum was interesting but nothing special. We spent the day there preparing for the next two weeks and doing things we were unable to do at Sadhana forest (like make a mess of our hotel room).  We had some stressful moments trying to send packages at a post office and visited the zoo that life of Pi was based off of.




Our first  stop was a coastal town called Varkala which is known as a beautiful but budget friendly beach for backpackers.  There are a few sandy beach areas but most of the coastline consists of rocky cliffs towering next to the Arabian sea. Of course, with such beauty comes tourism. The first night we stayed at a guest house off of the main tourist strip and explored the "Indian beach" and the inland town. The next two nights we spent on the main tourist strip (on the cliffs) which was relaxing and beautiful but the tourism got old quickly.  The food was overpriced, westernized and therefore not as good.  There were dozens of harassing shopkeepers all selling the same things and yelling, "looking is free just take a look!." We also didn't feel comfortable stripping down into our bikinis like many of the westerners did in the   "tourist beach" area. Regardless, we enjoyed those 2 days eating at cafes with amazing views, taking walks along the coastline and watching the sunset while drinking chai.



Our next destination was a city called Alleppey (Alappuzha) which is known for its backwaters, a chain of tropical canals, lagoons and lakes paralleing the Arabian sea. We spent a full day of travel to get to Alleppey and then spent our first full day there exploring the city.  The most popular way for tourists to view the backwaters is on a houseboat but we opted against this since it is very pricey and unable to manuver its way down the smaller more intimate canals.  Instead, our guesthouse connected us with a local villager who lived in the backwaters and took us around in his canoe.  We had lunch at his house and spent the day slowly meadering through the narrow canals and getting a taste of the life in this part of India. It is a miraculously beautiful sight with thousands of palm trees, green plants, colorful flowers and stretches of luscious rice fields.  I felt like I was in the jungle book. We watched dozens of women washing clothes and dishes right in the canals and witnessed many groups taking their daily baths (of course with clothes on).  In contrast to the city of Alleppey, the backwaters were quiet and peaceful.  Our guide was enthusiastic and loved taking crooked yet artistic pictures with out photos.








After a few days in Alleppey we took a long and scary bus ride up the mountains to a hill station called Munnar which is known for its cool climate and tea plantations.  We happened to be there a weekend of a holiday so the town was packed with Indian tourists who were on mini vacations. We explored the tea fields which covered hills and mountains creating beautiful views. We also took a half day trek where we were lucky enough to see wild elephants!  We must have been really lucky because our guide was very surprised to see them and even seemed frightened.  We had to keep our distance and change our route but the elephant spotting made the hike go from beautiful to extraordinary.





Our last stop in our two week trip of Kerala was a city called Kochi which is a pretty touristy area and is most well known for the Island called Fort Kochi.  Our first night we spent on the mainland in an area called Ernakulum which was much less touristy (and therefore less expensive).  There, we enjoyed our second Indian movie theatre experience and ate delicious Indian food.  We also tried an Indian McDonalds which serves completely different food than the American fast-food chain.  The next few days we spent on Fort Kochi, an Island that was a once a battleground for European empires and now consists of a mixture of historical European and Indian tourist attractions. The highlights of Fort Kochi for me were the spice markets, the colorful buildings and Jew Town.  Although the Jewish community has decreased dramatically, Kochi was once home to the Malabar Jews who are the oldest group of Jews in India. Paradesi Synagogue was contracted in 1560 and is a very popular tourist attraction in Kochi. Fort Kochi was a bit too touristy for me but I felt very safe there and had easy access to wifi so it was the perfect place for me to hangout for an extra day or two and figure out the next step of my trip.






Overall, I had an amazing two weeks in Kerala.  Not only was I lucky to find two amazing travel buddies but I really can't imagine traveling through a more beautiful part of India (although I really cannot say that since I have way too much more of the country to see).